Westminster is often described as a village, and like most villages it has a clutch of good pubs and a decent curry house down the road. But beyond that the area isn’t overly blessed with places to eat, drink and be merry. There’s little in the way of bars (except in hotels and the Palace of Westminster itself), let alone nightclubs. The closest of those is in Embankment – Players and Heaven are favourites (though such is the paucity of choice that Michael Gove clearly felt the need to go all the way to Ibiza to bust his moves).
As for restaurants, the slim choice means there is a small group of favoured haunts, and you can be confident that there’ll be a table of political friends (or rivals) a mere onion bhaji’s throw away. Some MPs have always sought to escape Westminster to plot, heading for the likes of The Gay Hussar (at least until 2018), Rules, Kennington Tandoori (one of life’s great mysteries) or – in the case of Tony Blair and Gordon Brown – the infamous Granita in Islington. But most MPs, lords, spads, political lobbyists and journalists are creatures of habit and proximity, preferring to lurk within sniffing distance of power.
It is all change in Westminster at present, politically and gastronomically. The brutality of the restaurant trade, compounded by lockdown, has killed off some of the best-loved spots in the past few years. One is on the verge of re-opening under new management; others remain forlornly shut. So, as MPs return to the village from recess today, here is both a tribute to the legends of the past and a look ahead to the future, with the places the political class go to eat and drink – and of course to see and be seen.
The Cinnamon Club
Long the political elite’s favoured curry house, the Cinnamon Club occupies a grand Victorian pile of red brick that was formerly Westminster Library, and one can see why the book-lined interior feels reassuringly familiar for our parliamentarians. The food is creative without being too avant-garde, though the squirrel curry they served a few years ago got people talking (Mark Field described the taste as ‘a cross between rabbit and pigeon’). As with all of Westminster’s restaurants, it is often busier in the day than in the evening and the £30 two-course set lunch features the likes of ‘Kolkata-style crab and cod cakes’ followed by a main of ‘fiery Rajasthani lamb curry’. Perfect fuel for some afternoon political combat at the despatch box.
Shepherd’s of Westminster (recently closed, reopening as Visconti)
Shepherd’s was a den of political intrigue long before being taken over by Lionel Zetter (the veteran lobbyist) in 2014. Its curtained windows and dividers between booths allowed (at least a modicum of) privacy, encouraging machination. It was one of the only restaurants to have a copy of the civil service directory of names permanently placed at the bar (next to the cigar humidor). I once literally crashed into Boris Johnson, then Foreign Secretary, as he was rising from a tête-à-tête with then Home Secretary Amber Rudd. The latter (married to the late, great A.A. Gill) presumably knows a thing or two about good grub and approved of its reliable menu of British classics. On another occasion, I shot the breeze with Nigel Farage who was enjoying a fag on the entrance steps. More disconcerting was drinking a ‘Deputy Speakers’ (a cocktail named for Lindsey Hoyle, a regular) while Hoyle, then Deputy Speaker, was presiding over a debate on the TV (set to BBC Parliament) in the corner, only for Hoyle to pop in and plonk himself on the next table not long after. One can sometimes hear too much from the honourable member for Chorley. All of this sadly came to an end in 2019 when the restaurant shut its doors, but it is imminently to reopen as Visconti, promising Italian fine dining. Let’s hope the osso buco greases the political powwow as successfully as did Shepherd’s steak and kidney pie.
The Red Lion
Primus inter pares among the watering holes of Westminster, the Red Lion is an institution. Save for the likes of Strangers’ Bar and the Woolsack (formerly the Sports and Social Club) within the Palace of Westminster itself, this Fuller’s pub is probably your best bet if you want to catch sight of an MP. The Red Lion was the pub MPs loved enough to consider nationalising to get around a drinking ban during parliamentary repairs. Opposite the Foreign Office, it is also popular with diplomats and civil servants, not to mention parliamentary staffers, political journalists and – thankfully – only the odd confused tourist, separated from the rest of their group who have ended up in St Stephen’s Tavern. People don’t really come to eat, but the menu is in fact quite appealing – particularly the bar snacks, which include the likes of cockle popcorn (£7.50), wild boar Scotch egg (£7) and potted Fuller’s River Test smoked trout (£8.50). The 18th century Two Chairmen (around the corner from The Spectator offices), the Westminster Arms (great views of the Abbey, and with a handsome walnut division bell), The Clarence (charming and historic, down towards Trafalgar Square) and the Horse and Guardsman (impressively spruced up after a recent makeover) are all popular with politicos too.
Roux at Parliament Square (recently closed, replacement TBC)
Michel Roux Jr’s restaurant, opened in 2010, was probably the fanciest of the Westminster eateries. Situated in the Royal Institute of Chartered Surveyors’ building (not actually at Parliament Square but close by at 11 Great George Street) it was a handsome place, with the French-influenced modern European food you would expect. It remains to be seen what replaces it. Until then, MPs will have to settle for having their duck à l’orange in the Commons dining room.
Marquis of Granby
The ‘MoG’ is a favourite of policy wonks from Tufton Street – and Nigel Farage – and is also remembered fondly by those who cut their teeth working at Conservative Central Office when it was located at nearby Smith Square. There is an upstairs dining room doing decent grub. The pick of the menu is the steak and Nicholson’s Pale Ale pie: at £14 (without sides) it’s not exactly cheap but it did win gold at the British Pie Awards. The place is named for the 19th-century war hero who is said to have more pubs named after him than anyone else, due apparently to his habit of setting up soldiers of his regiment as publicans once they were too old to serve. Cheers to that. An idea for minister for veterans’ affairs Johnny Mercer?
Chez Antoinette
The current darling of the political class, this newish French restaurant in Victoria has become a much-loved favourite thanks to its outdoor terrace, well-priced wine list and bistro-style food, providing a bit of joie de vivre in SW1. It’s as popular with journos as it is with MPs, perhaps because there’s a good-value lunch option in the quiche of the day with a side salad for £8.50 – though some of Westminster’s bon vivants are partial to the beef bavette with persillade potatoes (£19) and the Cornish cod with ratatouille (£24). One slice of Antoinette’s chocolate cake meanwhile is enough to have some of our elected representatives erupt into shouts of ‘Vive la France!’ before scurrying back to the chamber.
Quirinale (recently closed, replacement TBC)
Smart Quirinale at 1 Great Peter Street is another recent victim of the unforgiving restaurant trade, having closed despite many admirers of its high quality, traditional Italian food. Despite being lower-ground level, it was a pleasant light-filled room and possessed a sort of elegant but unpretentious style. It was said to be particularly popular with the Cameron set. Here’s hoping it will be reincarnated into something equally worthy of its prime location.
Osteria Dell’ Angolo
Osteria, directly opposite the Home Office, is a well-heeled Italian restaurant that is particularly pleasant and popular in summer when its patio-style doors can be thrown open. More than once I’ve spotted Sajid Javid enjoying a drink at one of the outdoor tables, particularly in his younger, beardless days as Home Secretary. He is far from this venue’s only political patron, and it’s particularly popular with distinguished-looking lords and their guests. The great-value set lunch (£23.50 for two courses, or £27.50 for three) features the likes of finocchiona (a Tuscan salami), rocket and parmesan to start, and chicken Milanese for main.
Mathura
A recent opening in the converted Westminster Fire Station, Atul Kochhar’s new restaurant will be aiming to give the Cinnamon Club a run for its money in luring the political set. It is a beautiful space and, coming hot on the heels of Chiltern Firehouse in Marylebone, continues the tradition of repurposing central London fire stations (just in time for the arrival of 40°c summers and wildfires). The set lunch is £28.50 for two courses or £34.50 for three, for which you can enjoy the likes of yellow mustard sea bass followed by tandoori chicken (and not content to be outdone by Dishoom’s beloved 24 hour-simmered black dal, Mathura have chosen to cook theirs for 36 hours). It’s reportedly already attracted MPs and lords, though with such a large space (there is an expansive basement as well as the main ground floor area, and a private dining room) it feels both chambers could decamp here for curry and poppadoms and there’d still be room to spare. One for those pondering possible locations for the relocation of parliament during the Great Repair Job to consider, perhaps.
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