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Olivia Potts

Forget London – why foodies are flocking to the North

If you only read restaurant reviews, you might be forgiven for thinking that the North is a culinary wasteland: despite a few intrepid reviewers venturing further than the Watford gap, restaurant reviewing remains firmly London-centric. But there is life (and culinary prowess) beyond the outer zones of the London underground. Last month Moor Hall in Lancashire was named ‘National Restaurant of the Year’ at the prestigious Estrella Dam National Restaurant Awards. When it comes to the top spot, this is nothing new: Moor Hall has retained the top spot since 2019, when the last awards took place. The awards are voted for by UK chefs, restaurateurs and food writers, and

The trouble with being beautiful

It’s National Inclusion Week when we all come together to ‘celebrate everyday inclusion in all its forms’. This year’s theme is ‘unity’ where ‘thousands of inclusioneers worldwide’ are being encouraged to ‘take action to be #UnitedForInclusion.’ In the bewildering world of identity politics, however, there is one group of excluded individuals you won’t be hearing much about. As a demographic, they suffer from all kinds of discrimination and yet social justice activists seem uninterested in their plight. Unlike oppressed minorities, this particular group may be in the majority and yet they garner little in the way of sympathy from anyone, barring their mums, perhaps. As with race, gender and disability,

Where to dine in Hackney

Hackney’s rise in the 2000s from dangerous and affordable to cool, cooler and coolest eventually made it a kind of Chelsea of east London, with the expensive housing – house prices have grown 281 per cent between 2001 – and glamorous dining establishments to match. It may have become a magnet for Fullham exiles but Hackney never quite lost its aura of cool, and its transformation into one of the priciest areas of London has come not with a dumbing down but with the refinement of a distinctive, creative dazzle. The payoff? A proliferation of yummy, interesting restaurants. Having lost track of Hackney’s culinary scene in recent years as other

The battle of the streamers: which is the best value subscription?

Thinking of purchasing a new streaming service this autumn, or rejigging your existing subscriptions? As well as crunching the numbers on costs, we’ve compared the upcoming content, so you can get the best bang for your buck. Netflix (£9.99 per month) Still very much the granddaddy of the streaming services, Netflix continues to reliably do the numbers when it comes to subscriptions – with a recent surge into the ‘silver surfer’ (that is, viewers over 65) market, although its overall market share has reduced significantly over the last year with the arrival of competitors like Disney Plus and the growth of Amazon Prime. The streaming giant has just about worked through its

Why is the Ryder Cup so cringe?

And so to Whistling Straits, a venue with a name so ridiculous it could only be something to do with golf. The Ryder Cup is on us again, that biennial experiment to discover which overweight American is loudest at shouting ‘get in the hole!’ Golf shouldn’t be about artificial passion. Don’t get me wrong, the game itself is not without merit. For various work reasons I’ve spent a bit of time at professional tournaments, and the players are likeable, down-to earth people from ordinary backgrounds who just happen to be incredibly skilled at hitting a small ball into a small hole that’s far away. They’re as different as could be

Lloyd Evans

Madam Butterfly and a pointless discussion about colonialism

Welsh National Opera’s new version of Puccini’s Madam Butterfly opens today. To help audiences understand the opera’s historical significance this week the producers staged an online discussion, ‘The Long Arm of Imperialism.’  It was chaired by professor Priyamvada Gopal who teaches postcolonial studies at Cambridge. She began by reminding us that many of the greatest operas in the canon were written in the 19th century, ‘when 85 per cent of the earth was, in some form or other, annexed to the cultural project…so there is no culture untouched by that project.’ In addition, she said, the concept of west-versus-east was a creation of colonialism: ‘The familiar categories of the west and the east…are

Tom Goodenough

There’s nothing noble about televising violent crime

Are there crimes that are too depraved to be dramatised? And how long should programme makers wait before real life crime becomes the subject of a TV show? If the case of the Night Stalker – a serial burglar and rapist who terrorised south east London for 17 years during the 1990s and 2000s – is worthy of being turned into television, then doing so now is surely too soon. Hundreds of elderly woman and men – the youngest, 68; the eldest in her nineties – fell prey to the Night Stalker. Men and women, sleeping in their beds, woken by a gloved hand, a masked face. A decade after

Olivia Potts

The trick to making blackberry pie

There are some fruits which, while lovely cooked, are probably at their best fresh: nectarines and peaches, raspberries, mango. But blackberries, as delightful as they are eaten fresh from the bush mid-forage, come alive when cooked. As you heat blackberries, and they break down and give up their juices, begin to smell like violets and wine. They become more complex, perfumed; their sweet-sour flavour is softened into something more elegant, even more irresistible than when fresh. Normally in a pie, those beautiful juices are a cause for concern. They’re a one-way ticket to a soggy bottom, something we try to avoid with careful blind-baking, or pre-cooking, or layering the base with

The perils of an autumn Chelsea Flower Show

Once upon a time, the Royal Horticultural Society staged a Great Autumn Show every September in their two Horticultural Halls off Vincent Square in London. It was a fine mixture of colourful nursery trade exhibitions and fiercely-fought amateur competitions, involving fruits, flowers and glowing foliage (Who could forget the amusing annual battle between the Dukes of Marlborough and Devonshire – or rather their head gardeners – over the prize for the best bunch of glasshouse grapes?). The Great Autumn Show was almost as much a draw to Londoners as Chelsea Flower Show in May, and to those ‘in the know’ it was as fashionable, but the last one was staged in

Since when did running become so exclusive?

Many of us have reached the conclusion of late that the world has gone mad, so it will come as no surprise to learn that it’s now possible to sign-up for a run with an entry fee that’s proudly claimed to be ‘the second highest in the world’. To those who have long regarded running as a) something that you would pay not to do or b) an activity that’s appealing because it’s one of the few things left in life that’s free, entering the four-day ‘Highland Kings Ultra’ might seem like an odd way to blow £15,499. But, according to organiser Primal Adventures, ‘a significant number’ of the 40

For sale: the Kensington townhouse that hosted Gladstone and Tennyson

Queen Victoria famously described William Gladstone as a ‘half-mad firebrand’ who ‘addresses me as if I were a public meeting.’ The monarch reluctantly put up with the Liberal politician as her prime minister four times between 1868 and 1894, while considering him – among many other things – ‘arrogant, tyrannical and obstinate.’ Quite what she made of George Warren, the 2nd Baron de Tabley, who Gladstone appointed as her Treasurer of the Household at the start of his first term as premier, is unclear – but we do know he quit his job monitoring the widowed, querulous and reclusive monarch’s finances on behalf of Parliament two years before Gladstone’s electoral defeat

James Delingpole

What’s the point of Awards Shows like the Emmys?

Most Brits will be aware of the Emmys, if at all, as the event that this year generated lots of social media outrage because apparently all the celebrities should have worn masks but didn’t. But few will have any idea who won or who was even nominated: unlike the Golden Globes or the Oscars, they too often seem to feature shows we’ve never heard of on American TV networks with lots of acronyms. You’ll definitely know this year’s big winner, though: The Crown which triumphed in every drama category, including a best supporting actress for Gillian Anderson for her rather good Margaret Thatcher, a Best Actress in a Drama Series

Isabel Hardman

What England’s wild swimmers can learn from Scotland

Why can’t you swim in reservoirs? They look so cool and inviting and are often the only open bodies of water available in certain parts of the country. And yet swimming is prohibited in the majority of them. The answer usually offered is that they are dangerous, cold, deep, that there are underwater structures and machines that could injure you or suck you under the water. The strange thing is that this answer only applies in England and Wales, not Scotland, where reservoir swimming is common. Access to inland waters in Scotland is enshrined by law: my local group in West Lothian is full of dippers chatting about their adventures

Sing for your supper: London’s best Karaoke booths

After Cabinet members recently took to the microphone for a karaoke evening, is Westminster’s new favourite hobby on course for a winter comeback? With summer days of al fresco cocktails and late-night picnics in the park almost behind us, a let-your-hair-down evening belting out karaoke could be just the answer. Here’s our guide to London’s best booths. Bloomsbury Bowling Lanes Cosy rooms with vinyl records covering every inch of wall, studded leather sofas and low-lit kitschy lamps create a perfectly funky vibe for an evening of crooning along to Otis Reading and Stevie Wonder. This retro bowling alley, which is a short hop from Russell Square station, has eight lanes and the only vintage

The moral panic over Instagram and girls

This week’s biggest social media panic that isn’t about Nicki Minaj’s cousin’s balls comes to us from the Wall Street Journal, in a bombshell report titled ‘The Facebook Files.’ According to WSJ reporters, a trove of internal documents from the secretive social media company reveals that, despite much protest (and congressional testimony) to the contrary, Facebook’s executives know better than anyone that their platform is a place of chaos and social destruction. The multi-part series digs into everything from content moderation to curb ‘anger’ to Facebook’s efforts to promote the COVID-19 vaccine. But one section in particular has garnered attention for the picture it paints of a faceless, heartless corporation exploiting

How to make an authentic paella

The UK has something of a reputation for butchering those classic European dishes on which entire cultures seem to be founded. Think spaghetti carbonara creamy enough to make an Italian weep or the kind of rubbery, watery beef bourguignon that is the culinary equivalent of our grizzly, grey weather to any self-respecting Frenchman or woman. But perhaps no dish is more maligned or widely miscooked than Paella. Certainly, we’re not helped in this respect by our celebrity chefs. And the usual suspects are at it again – Jamie Oliver reportedly received death threats for adding chorizo to his version and Gordon Ramsay followed suit, eliciting a similar reaction. It’s also

Melanie McDonagh

The return of the milk round

How do you help the environment and improve your quality of life? Why, buy milk in bottles. Some of us can remember them – foil topped, left outside the door, washed, then returned…a virtuous cycle which worked because it made practical sense. Life went downhill when the milk industry was deregulated in the 1990s and milk turned up in plastic cartons, homogenised and in supermarkets, and so it has remained, until quite recently. But the rattle of the milk van is returning to the streets in parts of London and elsewhere…things, folks, are looking up. It was one of the great advances in human civilisation when we developed lactose to

The wine bars every Londoner should know about

A funny thing happened in lockdown. Bars shut but they seeded a growing crop of bottle shops that, since freedom has been declared have either turned back into, or become, bars in their own right. And now that we can, there is pure pleasure in twisting bottles around in the light, mulling labels and wine lists first hand instead of squinting at them online. There is also a comforting intimacy to wine bars that sits at odds with the clatter of a pub: an air of sophistication, even if you have no idea what the sommelier is talking about. That said, with a new crop offering both more outlandish and

Olivia Potts

French toast: an easy-peasy bougie brunch

A rose by any other name may smell as sweet, but somehow, eggy bread just doesn’t hold the same appeal as French toast, does it? The latter has become a bougie brunch dish, while the former languishes in second-hand student cookbooks. At heart, they’re the same thing: slightly stale bread soaked in an egg-based custard, then fried. Whatever pretensions French toast may have (and however delicious it might be), its origins are a cheap dish that improves and extends the life of stale bread with just a couple of eggs and a knob of butter. Of course, they aren’t the only two names for this stuff: unsurprisingly for an economical

The North Water: ten films set in the wilderness

BBC2’s mid-19th century Arctic whaling drama The North Water is earning critical praise for its gruelling depiction of seafaring life above the 66th Parallel. Murder, deceit, starvation, shipboard homosexuality (willing/unwilling), cannibalism (or at least hints of it in The North Water), an irate polar bear and deliberately scuttled ships feature in the drama. If you’re thinking that the scenario of The North Water sounds familiar, you’d be right, as these elements were all present in season one of The Terror (2018, AMC), which was finally shown earlier this year, also on BBC2. The North Water stars Colin Farrell (evil harpooner Henry Drax) and Jack O’Connell (emotionally damaged ships surgeon Patrick Sumner)