Another great Bordeaux vintage on the cards? Peter Grogan examines the unexpected problems created by never-ending success
The art of assessing the likely future quality of very young red wines by sniffing away at what are known as ‘barrel samples’ is a decidedly arcane one. I’m no good at it and I haven’t even been within spitting distance of Bordeaux during the current en primeur campaign for the 2010 vintage.

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