Which came first? The egg, obviously
‘We English prefer brown eggs,’ wrote J. B. Priestley in the 1970s, ‘they seem to us to have a more reliable look of rusticity.’ The mottled chestnut shell of a Burford Brown is surely more genuine than the clinical, white-shelled variety favoured by the American market. It’s a charming point, but there’s really no relationship between shell colour and the egg itself. Eggs from the Chilean Araucana hen are a beautiful blue, and if you were to crossbreed an Araucana with a brown egg hen, the pigments mix and you get green eggs. The Chinese Cochin dapples her eggs with delicate yellow spots. The colour of yolks is enhanced in factories by adding dried marigold leaves
